Quick Answer
Pool algae itself doesn't directly cause UTIs, but algae-contaminated water creates ideal conditions for E. coli and other UTI-causing bacteria to thrive. The solution is eliminating algae through proper chlorination and water chemistry.
Tools & Supplies Needed
Find on Amazon: Taylor K-2006 Pool Test Kit , Liquid Chlorine Pool Sanitizer , Pool Algae Brush
Quick Answer
Pool algae doesn't directly cause UTIs, but it creates the perfect environment for UTI-causing bacteria like E. coli to multiply. When your pool has algae, it means your sanitizer levels are insufficient to kill harmful microorganisms. The real culprits behind swimming-related UTIs are bacteria that flourish in poorly maintained, algae-infested water.
How Algae Creates UTI Risk Conditions
Algae growth indicates your pool's chlorine levels have dropped below effective sanitizing levels (typically below 1.0 ppm free chlorine). When this happens, your pool becomes a breeding ground for various pathogens including:
- E. coli bacteria - the primary cause of 85% of UTIs
- Enterococcus species - another common UTI pathogen
- Pseudomonas aeruginosa - causes both UTIs and skin infections
- Other coliform bacteria from environmental contamination
These bacteria attach to algae biofilms and multiply rapidly in the nutrient-rich environment that algae provides. The longer algae persists, the higher the bacterial load becomes.
Immediate Steps to Eliminate Algae and Bacteria
To make your pool safe for swimming and eliminate UTI risks, you need to perform a SLAM process (Shock Level And Maintain). Here's exactly how:
- Test your current water chemistry using a Taylor K-2006 test kit or similar accurate kit. Record FC (free chlorine), CC (combined chlorine), pH, CYA (cyanuric acid), and TA (total alkalinity).
- Calculate your shock level based on your CYA reading. For 30 ppm CYA, maintain 12 ppm FC. For 50 ppm CYA, maintain 20 ppm FC. Use the FC/CYA chart for precise levels.
- Adjust pH to 7.2-7.4 before shocking. Add muriatic acid if pH is above 7.4 - typically 1 quart per 10,000 gallons lowers pH by 0.2.
- Add liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite 10-12.5%) to reach shock level. Avoid granular "pool shock" products as they often contain stabilizer you don't need.
- Run your pump 24/7 during the SLAM process. Clean or backwash your filter every 24 hours as it captures dead algae.
- Brush all surfaces thoroughly twice daily. Pay special attention to steps, corners, and behind ladders where algae hides.
- Test FC levels every 12 hours and add more liquid chlorine to maintain shock level.
When It's Safe to Swim Again
Your pool is safe for swimming when you achieve these three conditions:
- Water is crystal clear with no green, yellow, or cloudy appearance
- FC loss is less than 1 ppm overnight (indicates no more organic matter consuming chlorine)
- Combined chlorine (CC) is 0.5 ppm or lower
Safety Warning: Never swim in a pool with visible algae, regardless of chlorine readings. The bacterial load may still be dangerous even with adequate FC levels.
Preventing Future Algae and Health Risks
Maintain these water chemistry targets to prevent algae growth and associated health risks:
- Free Chlorine: 1-3 ppm for pools with 30-50 ppm CYA
- pH: 7.4-7.6 for optimal chlorine effectiveness
- Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm (60-80 for salt water pools)
- Cyanuric Acid: 30-50 ppm (70-80 for salt water generators)
- Calcium Hardness: 250-350 ppm for plaster pools, 150-250 for vinyl/fiberglass
Additional UTI Prevention While Swimming
Beyond maintaining algae-free water, follow these practices to minimize UTI risk:
- Urinate before and after swimming to flush bacteria from the urinary tract
- Shower immediately after swimming to remove any lingering bacteria
- Change out of wet swimwear promptly - bacteria multiply in moist environments
- Stay hydrated to promote frequent urination, which naturally flushes bacteria
- Avoid sitting on pool decks or in shallow areas where bacterial concentrations may be higher
Testing and Monitoring Schedule
Test your pool water at least twice weekly during swimming season, and daily if you've recently had algae issues. Use test strips for quick checks, but rely on a liquid drop test kit like the Taylor K-2005 or K-2006 for accurate readings when treating problems.
Retest 24 hours after any chemical additions to ensure levels have stabilized in the proper ranges. If algae returns within a week, you likely have inadequate circulation, insufficient chlorine production, or need to clean your filter system more thoroughly.
Was this guide helpful?
Need More Help?
Try our free pool calculators and tools to help diagnose and fix your pool problems.
Browse Pool ToolsSLAM calculator, pH calculator, salt dosing & more
Help us improve this article by flagging technical issues or inaccuracies.