Quick Answer
Clear cloudy pool water by testing and balancing chemicals first, then shock with liquid chlorine to 2-3x your stabilizer level, run the filter 24/7, and backwash frequently until water clears completely.
Tools & Supplies Needed
Find on Amazon: Taylor K-2006C Pool Test Kit , Liquid Chlorine Pool Shock , Pool Clarifier Chemical
Quick Answer
Cloudy pool water indicates either poor filtration, chemical imbalance, or contaminant buildup. The solution involves testing water chemistry, shocking with liquid chlorine, running your filter continuously, and maintaining proper chemical levels until clarity returns - typically 24-72 hours with proper treatment.
Understanding What Causes Cloudy Water
Before jumping into solutions, it's crucial to understand that cloudy water stems from microscopic particles suspended in your pool. These particles are too small for your filter to catch initially, creating that milky, hazy appearance. Common causes include:
- Inadequate chlorine levels allowing bacteria and algae growth
- Poor water circulation and filtration
- Chemical imbalances, particularly high pH or total alkalinity
- Environmental contaminants like pollen, dust, or heavy bather loads
- Dead algae particles after recent algae treatment
- Calcium precipitation from high pH levels
Complete Water Chemistry Testing
Start with a comprehensive water test using a reliable test kit like the Taylor K-2006C. You need accurate readings for:
- Free Chlorine (FC): Should match your CYA level using the FC/CYA chart
- Combined Chlorine (CC): Should be less than 0.5 ppm
- pH: Target 7.4-7.6 for optimal chlorine effectiveness
- Total Alkalinity (TA): 80-120 ppm for regular pools, 60-80 for salt water
- Cyanuric Acid (CYA): 30-50 ppm for regular pools, 70-80 for salt water generators
- Calcium Hardness: 250-350 ppm for plaster pools, 150-250 for vinyl/fiberglass
Warning: Never add chemicals without knowing your current levels. This can worsen the problem or create unsafe swimming conditions.
Step-by-Step Clearing Process
Phase 1: Chemical Balance Correction
- Adjust pH first: If pH is above 7.6, add muriatic acid. Use 1 quart per 10,000 gallons to lower pH by 0.2 points. Add acid to deep end with pump running.
- Lower total alkalinity if needed: High TA causes pH drift and reduces chlorine effectiveness. Use muriatic acid method - add acid, let pH drop to 7.0, then aerate to raise pH back to 7.4-7.6.
- Address calcium hardness: If over 400 ppm, partially drain and refill. If under 150 ppm, add calcium chloride at 1.25 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise 10 ppm.
Phase 2: Shock Treatment
- Calculate shock level: Use liquid chlorine to reach 2-3 times your CYA level. For example, with 50 ppm CYA, target 10-15 ppm FC.
- Add liquid chlorine: Use 1 gallon of 12.5% sodium hypochlorite per 10,000 gallons to raise FC by 10 ppm. Add chlorine at dusk or night to prevent sun degradation.
- Maintain shock level: Test FC every 2-4 hours and add more chlorine to maintain target level. This is the SLAM (Shock Level And Maintain) method.
Phase 3: Filtration and Circulation
- Run filter continuously: Keep your pump running 24/7 during treatment. This is not the time to save on electricity.
- Clean filter frequently: For sand filters, backwash when pressure rises 8-10 psi above clean pressure. For cartridge filters, rinse every 12-24 hours.
- Use clarifier if needed: Add clarifier according to label directions to help bind microscopic particles. Avoid flocculant unless you can vacuum to waste.
Advanced Troubleshooting
If Water Doesn't Clear in 48 Hours
- Check filter operation: Ensure proper backwashing technique and consider filter media replacement if over 2 years old
- Test for phosphates: High phosphate levels can interfere with chlorine effectiveness and promote cloudiness
- Verify CYA levels: Over 100 ppm CYA requires partial drain and refill as chlorine becomes ineffective
- Consider equipment issues: Pump problems, broken laterals in sand filters, or torn cartridges prevent proper filtration
Special Situations
Green/cloudy water: This indicates algae presence. Follow SLAM method continuously until you can see bottom of deep end in daylight and FC loss overnight is 1 ppm or less.
White/gray cloudiness: Often indicates calcium precipitation from high pH. Lower pH immediately and increase circulation.
Post-rain cloudiness: Usually environmental contamination. Shock treat and run filter continuously for 24-48 hours.
Prevention Strategies
Preventing cloudy water is easier than treating it:
- Maintain FC levels appropriate for your CYA level daily
- Keep pH between 7.4-7.6 consistently
- Run your pump adequate hours daily (typically 8-12 hours minimum)
- Clean filter regularly on schedule
- Shower before swimming and limit bather load during parties
- Use a pool cover when possible to reduce environmental contamination
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using calcium hypochlorite shock: This raises calcium hardness and can worsen cloudiness. Use liquid chlorine instead.
- Adding multiple chemicals simultaneously: This can cause precipitation and worsen cloudiness.
- Stopping treatment too early: Continue SLAM until water is crystal clear and FC loss overnight is minimal.
- Neglecting filter maintenance: A dirty filter cannot clear cloudy water regardless of chemical balance.
Remember, clearing cloudy water requires patience and consistent treatment. Test water chemistry every 4-6 hours during treatment, maintain proper chlorine levels, and keep that filter running until your pool returns to crystal clarity.
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